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'Sometimes you have to wait to achieve real success, but you should never give up'

21.04.2015 Łukasz Jemioł is a Polish designer who boldly combines sports style with classic elegance. He graduated from the Academy of Fine Arts and Design in Łódź and has won many important fashion awards in Poland, such as: Competition for Fashion Designers Golden Thread, Fashion Oscars de Lux pret- a -porter, and Fashion Folk. He also has twice received scholarship from the Ministry of Culture and National Heritage for achievements in the field of fashion and art. Many celebrities and well-known people wear his clothes: Anja Rubik, Sonia Bohosiewicz, Małgorzata Kożuchowska, Michał Żebrowski, Kayah, Małgorzata Socha, Kinga Rusin, Alicja Bachleda Curuś and Piotr Adamczyk. First of all, we asked Łukasz Jemioł about his collection of clothes, his inspiration, sector of luxury goods in Poland and also about debuting designers from Cracow Fashion Week in this year. We also asked for valuable advice for those who are just starting to design. You were a guest of Cracow Fashion Week. Do you think that Cracow could become the next fashion city? What do you think about young designers from the School of Art and Fashion Design?

In SAPU I met a lot of nice, ambitious people with heads full of ideas. In the competition for designers I appreciated Joanna Organiściak. She recently came to Łódź to the premiere of the new collection 'BASIC' Fall/ Winter 2015. I hope that soon I will also be invited on her show. I know that in this city, in Cracow, there is space for fashion. You can buy 'Basic' line at the boutique Louve. 'Basic' and 'Premium' collections have here their audience. Definitely, Cracow is a fashionable city and a city of fashion.

Have you any advice for designers who just starting their careers? How was it in your case? How did it start?

The decision about studies which could give me the theory of design I made at the age of 18. For those who are just beginning I can give a piece of advice: the useful things in our profession are consequence, open mind and resistance to stress. They should work on this. Sometimes we have to wait for success, but we can't give up.

Many well- known fashion magazines such as Vogue or Harper's Bazar pay so much attention on street fashion. This is not the first time when you are visiting Cracow. For this reason I have a question. Have you noticed any differences in fashion in Łódź or Warsaw?

In my subjective assessment, I think that in Warsaw we have often the opportunity to meet bold stylizations. But, fashion on the streets of Cracow is also very interesting and diverse. I work with Cracow bloggers and I like this city and its atmosphere.

The fashion show of your collection for spring/ summer 2015 took place in December in the Polish National Opera in Warsaw. Al invitations were quite unusual- they were in a box of fresh flowers. Where did the idea come from?

We always have fresh flowers for our clients in one of the major boutiques on Mokotowska 26 in Warsaw. I love the accent of spring regardless of the season. I really wanted to give my guests a little bit atmosphere suitable for the premiere of the spring- summer collection, despite that show took place in December.

I noticed that when it comes to your projects, they often contain very interesting textures and patterns. What kind of fabrics do you use the most often? Do you have any favorites?

The most important thing is of course comfort. The clothes that I design have to be functional and can't be cumbersome. I'm a big fan of oversize forms because they give us greater freedom. I often use such materials as cotton, knitwear, linen, silk, denim... But I do not limit myself to only those proposals.

From where do you draw your inspiration?

I think that the most often, traveling abroad is my inspiration. 'Premium' collection is some kind of mosaic inspired by the heritage of exotic cultures and it is something completely different from 'Basic' collection. While 'Premium' is addressed to elegant women, whereas 'Basic' collection is a perfect way to feel good for every generations- from teenagers to senior, for women but also for men. This new collection 'Basic' is an echo of the events just across the border of our country. 'Forces'- that is the way that I called proposal for the autumn and winter of this year. This clothes has special atmosphere of the military but also includes elements which boycott war. T-shirts 'No war' are a way of disagreement of people who have a peaceful attitude and respect for others.

In this year brand Łukasz Jemioł celebrates its tenth anniversary. What do you think about the fashion industry in Poland from the perspective of that time? According to you, what will polish luxury goods market look like in next years?

Polish fashion industry is growing strongly. More and more people are engaged in designing clothes. New brands constantly arise, internet sales is expanding. Many artists learn how to achieve success in business and meet the needs of demanding customers who like personalized proposition and high quality. I am glad that number of companies that support the Polish designers is still growing. As a result, we do not need to save on materials and production. Polish brands have the same quality as western fashion houses. World renown is still ahead of us, but I think that it's a matter of a few years.

Your projects are available in several multi- brand stores in Cracow, but they don' t contain whole collection. Have you planned to create such boutique as on Mokotowska in Cracow?

I do not exclude such possibility. A group of regular clients of the brand is still growing and this gives me motivation to expand the list of boutiques. In September, I am opening a second boutique in Warsaw. Perhaps in the future it will also be one in Cracow. Then I will have another reason to come here! Greetings to all the residents of Cracow.

Interview by Joanna Wesołowska
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